You can pursue health without hating your current body.

As midnight approached, Jean-Pierre stood and raised his glass. “À la liberté,” he said, his voice quiet but firm. “À la peau. À Noël.” To freedom. To skin. To Christmas.

However, there is a ritual to arrival. Newcomers often arrive wearing coats, scarves, and boots. You check your clothes at a heated locker room (there are no "coat checks"—there are "fabric checks"). You remove your layers gradually. First the coat, then the sweater, then—you take a deep breath. The sensation, veterans say, is electric. The cold air on bare skin for the first thirty seconds heightens every sense. Then, the warmth of the fireplace and the proximity of other bodies takes over.